1991 Bally Party Zone and 1989 Williams Earthshaker Repairs

 

The current Hoots line-up

The current Hoots line-up

These games are up at Hoots Roller Bar in Winston-Salem, along with a Williams Rollergames. Great line-up of games that do change from time to time, definitely check them out in the Winston area!

I was originally contacted about Party Zone having a blank display. Turns out the DMD Controller Board was missing one of its key voltages — +62VDC. I had some parts for the HV section on hand, but was missing some of the key components. In an effort to keep the game up for a large event, I sold my working DMD Controller board out of my Fish Tales and kept the in-for-repair DMD Controller at home and ordered parts (look out for the post on DMD Controller board rebuild next week when parts are in!)

With display up, I checked a few other parts of the game. The owner mentioned the Captain Bizarre head wasn’t spinning, so I did some sleuthing on that and found two columns of switches were not registering. Since the 2803 was socketed, I dropped a new one in to see if that did the trick. It didn’t, so I pulled the board and started buzzing continuity. A lot of these WPC games can loose continuity over time in the switch matrix, I’ve seen it quite a bit actually. So, whenever you’re missing a row or column, remember to check continuity before shotgun replacing chips!

The missing columns were column 5 and column 8. Turns out the connection between U20 pin 11 and R74 was missing and U20 pin 14 and R71 was missing as well. These pins of U20 travel through the resistor/capacitor chain to the male pins of J206-8 and J206-5 which go on to the playfield switches.

I tied jumpers between these connections and Party Zone was back registering all switches in game and the DMD was back crisp and bright.

Jumpers tied on CPU to bring back missing columns

Jumpers tied on CPU to bring back missing columns

Earthshaker’s issue was that the pop bumpers were not working, all three of them. I checked the voltage at the coils and it was essentially nothing, milivolts. However, the fuse on the auxiliary power driver board that supplies the 25VDC was fine and the connections looked fine. Even the Quake motor, left slingshot and right slingshot which are on the same power line were fine.

For a second, I was scratching my chin on this one, but then remembered that Earthshaker has an under playfield fuse behind the pop bumpers that lines directly to them. It’s kind of buried and hard to see, but this 2 1/2 amp slow blow fuse was for sure popped. Once replaced, ES was back to speed.

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1977 Bally Evel Kneivel Repair

This game was brought to me for some garage workshop love. Cosmetically, it was in actually very nice condition for an all original EK, but electronically it had sat for a long time and was a complete bring back to life game.

Unfortunately, the original Ni-Cad battery was still on the bottom of the MPU and there was heavy corrosion. After getting it on the bench, I determined that this was beyond the amount of time worthwhile to repair from a cost-benefit stand point. So, I used one of my spare boards that was already unlocked and had a coin-style battery on it and dropped it in with some new EK ROMs.

Working and replaced MPU with a spare and new ROMs

Working and replaced MPU with a spare and new ROMs

On the solenoid driver board, I did my usual upgrades. Replaced capacitor C23 with a new 15,000 uf 25 volt cap, ran a jumper from the negative end of C23 to ground and tied TP1 and TP3 together. This game also had a few chips replaced and socketed on it. A lot of the joints on these were cold, as well as a good deal of the header joints. So, I reflowed all of them.

The game was also having some flickering and flaky display issues on the first and fourth player. I pulled these and reflowed the header pin joints and that cleaned up those issues on the displays.

Immediately upon boot up, the game was blowing the 20 amp GI fuse. Turns out that the ground braid was taunt and when the playfield was in game flat, the braid was shorting to one of the back GI sockets. I insulated the ground braid and dropped in a new 20 amp fast blow fuse which took care of this issue.

At this point, the game would boot but only work correctly about half the time. The other half of the time, the solenoids weren’t firing in the right order or the right solenoid. A lot of times this has correlation to pins 1-4 on J4 of the MPU and pins 3-7 on J4 of the solenoid driver board. These are the lines that communicate from the MPU to the solenoid driver which solenoids to fire. I completely repinned connector J4 on the solenoid driver with a new female connector and trifurcn .100 connectors. I repinned pins 1-4 and pin 10 of J4 on the MPU with new trifurcon .100 molex connectors.

This got the issue much more stable, but still not 100% reliable. There were still a couple solenoids not firing right. The U11 PIA is a chip component in line with the circuitry that sends the data from MPU out 1-4 on J4. I replaced U11 with a new 6821 and between that and the repinning, we were back to reliable functionality of Evel Knievel!

Repinned J4 on Solenoid Driver Board.

Repinned J4 on Solenoid Driver Board.

After getting everything off the ground and working, I replaced all the GI lamps with frosted white LEDs, replaced burnt bulbs and cleaned sockets as needed, cleaned the plastics, adjusted switches and ensured good playability and responsiveness of the game.

Fully functional wrapped up Evel Knievel!

Fully functional wrapped up Evel Knievel!

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2012 Stern X-Men, 1988 Williams Taxi and 1991 Williams Hurricane Repairs

The three patients for the day.

The three patients for the day.

These three games are located at the soon-to-open Abari bar arcade near downtown Charlotte, NC.

The owner, Zach, is looking to open March 1 and with everything else going on for the big opening, looked to some outside help on some small issues on a few of his machines.

Firstly, let me say that I really loved the space. Nice, just outside of downtown location, and filled with probably 20-30 arcade games from Ms. Pac Man to Turtles in Time to the coveted X-Men 6-player, and pins including these three, as well as Tron, WWF Royal Rumble, Addams Family, Demo Man, and NBA Fastbreak. I think it will be a great addition to Charlotte nightlife.

So, here were the issues that affected the machines: X-men was blowing F10 on startup, Hurricane direct switches weren’t working and Taxi’s ball gate was not holding up open long enough for the ball to get under into Gorbie’s hole.

By the time I arrived, Zach had already unplugged J6 from driver board of X-Men and had confirmed the fuse did not blow with that connector unplugged. This isolates the issue from the board and means, somewhere on the playfield, there was a short spiking back to the board through that connector and causing the fuse to blow.

F10 is the 20v line and connector J6 is the flashers in the game. Looking over all the above playfield flashers and ones directly below, I couldn’t see any direct shorts. However, there are about five flashers behind the back panel that you can only see from looking under when the game is in service mode. The one on the far right corner literally fell apart when I touched it. This had to be our culprit. I didn’t have any 89 sockets with me, so for the time being I removed the broken socket and tied the power line which daisy chains together and insulated both sets of wires. This bypassed the short and allowed all other in game flashers to work. One down!

There are several issues that can cause direct switches in WPC games to not work. However, the most common that I’ve run into is a loss of ground to the switches. On the Hurricane, I removed the button switches from the door and inspected the ground wire that runs between them, no issues there. However, there was some hacks done around the ground door which tied several grounds together with a twist connector. One wire was out and the ground was off the coin mech. I soldered the ground back to the coin mech and added our loose wire into the twist nut. Hurricane was back in test mode and good to go.

Reconnected ground on Hurricane inside coin door.

Reconnected ground on Hurricane inside coin door.

Taxi, our final patient for the day, took a little more time. Zach had bought another coil mech to replace the under playfield mech, but the original worked from an electronic standpoint, just didn’t seem to stay open long enough. After digging around for awhile, I figured out it was more a maladjustment physically than any issue with the mech itself. Over time the spring that goes to the gate and down had loosened some, causing the clearance on the mech to not be enough to pull it open all the way. Not having a spring to spec on hand, I used some creative problem solving and took two pieces of cardboard, folded them and put them in between the mech plate and playfield so when screwed in, it would give more tension on the spring with the extra space.

Creative use of cardboard to allow proper function of ball gate mech.

Creative use of cardboard to allow proper function of ball gate mech.

This was just enough clearance needed to allow the ball gate to open fully and give the needed time for the ball to hit Gorbie’s hole.

The full line up of pins at Abari in Charlotte.

The full line up of pins at Abari in Charlotte.

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1978 Bally Star Trek Repair

Got a call from a gentleman with a Bally Star Trek. The game was mostly working fine but the player 1 display was missing a digit and there were no GI lamps working in the game.

Upon inspection of the rectifier board, I saw that the GI fuse had literally burned itself off the board. The bottom of the fuse bracket had completely burnt off, likely from being over fused at some point. Proper fuse for the GI circuit in these games is a 20 amp fast blow.

I brought the rectifier/transformer board and Player 1 display back home with me to repair. I replaced the GI fuse clip that came off and put in a new 20 amp fast blow fuse.

 

Replaced fuse clip and new 20 amp fast blow for GI circuit on rectifier board.

Replaced fuse clip and new 20 amp fast blow for GI circuit on rectifier board.

Missing digit on test bench:

For the display issue, I checked the common R1, R3, R5, R7, R9, R11 resistors that can easily go out of spec, but they were all fine. I reflowed the header pins across the entire bottom end of the board, and our missing digit reappeared.

Over time these header pins can become stressed and crack or lose continuity to the pins. I took the two items back, installed them and then went through the game to ensure all lamps, switches and solenoids were working properly. Star Trek is back in action!

Working Bally Star Trek

Working Bally Star Trek

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1992 Williams Bram Stoker’s Dracula Repair

Quite happy to be typing this post. This one was a tough one that I thought had almost got me, but here we are typing up the repair log.

I was contacted about a repair on a Williams Bram Stoker’s Dracula that was having multiple solenoids firing and was also receiving a ground short to row 2 in the switch matrix. When I got the machine in my shop, it wasn’t still ground shorting row 2, but solenoids were still firing all over at boot up.

Here’s the original video the owner sent of issues that were happening:

One of the most interesting and important features to this game is the Mist Multiball feature, but it also can cause a lot of problems if maladjusted or something is not working correctly with it.

The game uses a long beam opto for switch #82 to detect when docked at the right gate pocket, and where the ball is along the playfield on the under playfield magnet mechanism. If this opto isn’t functioning correctly, it can cause all sorts of mayhem with the Mist Multiball feature.

Without a ball in the right or left gate pockets in single switch test, switch #82 should read CLOSED. When you put your hand in front of the beam it should read OPEN. This game was constantly in an OPEN state.

I trouble shot a lot of the common issues with Mist Multiball including: replacing the receiver and transmitter optos, replacing the L1 inductor on the 24 opto board, and as much adjustment as humanly possible, but still no dice.

I ended up ordering the Homepin 24 opto reproduction board available here: http://www.johns-arcade.com/#!product-page/c1cs/59919533-df8f-8f79-cd42-49f29c39302d.

It’s a great upgrade on the original board (which uses several obsolete components) and even has a beam test LED which is quite handy. After still having issues, I took my questions to Pinside and with the gracious help of several members there started to make some headway.

I bench tested the Homepin board to ensure proper receiver, transmitter and board functionality. This narrows down issues in the circuit; however, when installed in game it still wasn’t working.

Bench Testing the Homepin board, transmitter and receiver IR LEDs.

Bench Testing the Homepin board, transmitter and receiver IR LEDs.

The long beam opto needs a 940nm transmitter and I’m guessing mine wasn’t to spec though I bought from a fairly well known pinball supplier. I had a Radio Shack purchased transmitter in my kit which was still in original packaging and definitely marked 940nm. I installed it and beam test was back working 100% in game, yet we still had an issue with the switch matrix detecting the switch as constantly open.

Turns out a loss of continuity on the red/white row 2 line was causing the last bit of issue in the puzzle. Once that was addressed, Mist Multiball was back up and running.

The other issues addressed on this game were some damage to the 10 opto board from the ground short which was from exposed wire to metal on one of the optos. It fried a 1N4004 diode and I socketed and replaced all three LM339s on that board. I also had several switches not registering that needed to be adjusted and popped in a new 2803 at U20 since the game had already had that chip socketed and the likelihood of damage from ground row short was high.

Only thing left is a couple of feature lamps not working and a repin of J120 on the power driver board which is burnt up nicely. After those quick, easy fixes I’ll have this game back to the owner. This one has been a long road, but a rewarding repair.

Working Mist:

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1984 Bally Spy Hunter Repair Pt 2

Solenoid Driver Board Prepped for Upgrades

Solenoid Driver Board Prepped for Upgrades. Notice out of spec 22,000 mfd 16v cap at C23

So, I figured the unlocked MPU would solve all of our problems on Spy Hunter; however, when I plugged the board back in, we were still getting a locked on LED.

I checked TP5 on the MPU board and it had a low voltage, about 3.9VDC. I checked the voltages off the rectifier board and they were all in spec, but the solenoid driver was low as well at TP3.

I noticed that the solenoid driver hadn’t had the recommended jumpers ran and that the cap at C23 had been replaced at some point, but with an out of spec 22,000 mfd 16v. So, I pulled the solenoid driver board, swapped out C23 with a 15,000 mfd 25v cap, ran a small jumper from the negative end of C23 to the ground path below and tied a jumper between TP1 and TP3.

Popped the board back in and Spy Hunter was off and running. Only issue left was that the sound was really low. The Cheap Squawk board was getting all five flashes, so I adjusted the on board pot along with the in coin door pot and worked loose some of the grim in the pots. Sound was back, but just chiming. So, I went into adjustment 18 and set to “03” which allows the best sound experience from the game.

Bally Spy Hunter Up and Running after MPU and Solenoid Driver Repairs

Bally Spy Hunter Up and Running after MPU and Solenoid Driver Repairs

 

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1978 Bally Silverball Mania Repair

Fuse F4 is the solenoid fuse in the Bally Power Boards.

Fuse F4 is the solenoid fuse in the Bally Power Boards.

Got a call for a non-booting Silverball Mania. I figured I’d be in for the typical corrosion damage on the MPU repair, as this one had had some at one point but had been neutralized and repaired in the past.

Turns out, it wasn’t a locked on MPU or corrosion as the culprit. The MPU LED blinked six times, but never made its seventh flash which means the MPU wasn’t recognizing the +43VDC as present.

Several issues can cause this, but in this case it was a blown F4 fuse on the rectifier board. In case there was a short from the playfield or a shorted BR3, I plugged in my 3amp circuit breaker fuse first before replacing the blown fuse with a 5 amp slow blow to spec. This brought the seventh flash and allowed the game to boot.

This game was in great shape overall. Clean, bright displays and an upgraded board set with remote pack and bulletproofed solenoid driver board. I checked all the switches and solenoids to ensure proper operation and was off to the next call!

Silverball Mania back up and running with all seven flashes present on MPU.

Silverball Mania back up and running with all seven flashes present on MPU.

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1984 Bally Spy Hunter Pinball Repair

I like the Bally -17 and -35 games. I guess its a good thing too, as I do get a lot of service calls on these games. Most calls begin with, “It was working fine and lights up, but won’t start a game now and I see anything on my displays.” This almost immediately triggers my mind to a locked on or none working MPU.

Most of the time the locked on MPU is a result of corrosion damage from the Ni-Cad rechargeable battery mounted directly on the MPU board. Over time, these batteries leak and corrode the board with a base that damages traces and eats component legs. If you have a Bally or Stern game from 1977-1985 that is working, do yourself a favor and make sure your Ni-Cad is long off this board. The Ni-Cad battery should be either completely absent or replaced with some kind of remote back or coin battery.

This Spy Hunter machine was bought by Bill Fleming, who was the long time Bally guy in the Winston-Salem area. I’ve never met Bill before, but heard many stories of his Bally era expertise from my friend and fellow tech, Jack. Bill’s been out of the game for some time now and enjoying retirement, but he kept his games and boards nice. This machine had a remote battery on it and no corrosion at all, which is very rare for me to come across on these Bally boards.

He had also already upgraded the solenoid driver board of this game and everything looked really good. However, the MPU was locking on. Over time, even without corrosion, other components can fail, sockets can lose their continuity and chips can fail. After all, many of these components are now over 30 years old.

To go to our bare bones boot sequence, I removed all chips but the U6 ROM, U9 6800 CPU chip and U11 PIA. These are the only three chips (plus U2 if its a Stern) that are needed to get the initial flicker we want to see from the LED. When a board is really clean, but still locking on, the three primary things I check are: Ground paths to make sure there’s not a break in the ground throughout the board, +5vdc path between the J4 connector, capacitors in line and test point, and the three primary active components in the reset circuit, which are the Q1, Q2 and Q5 transistors.

Getting good continuity between ground and +5vdc all around, I replaced Q1, Q2 (both 4401) and Q5 (4403). After replacing these three transistors, I booted the board with my test fixture and got the initial flash. After that, I installed the rest of the chips back in the board and booted again revealing the six flashes you need to see on the test fixture (a seventh flash is needed for full game boot, but the test fixture doesn’t provide the needed +43vdc for the seventh flash).

Here’s a video of the boot up on the bench after all chips were re-installed:

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Stern Metallica LE Repair

Got a call from a guy with a Metallica LE that was spitting two balls out into the shooter lane.

Metallica LE spitting two balls into the shooter lane

Metallica LE spitting two balls into the shooter lane

 

Most of the time when a machine spits two balls out, there is something wrong with the trough switches. If one switch isn’t registering properly, the game will be confused on how many balls are present and this symptom can appear as a result.

Every pinball machine has trough switches. Depending on the age, they may be a leaf switch, a series of leaf switches, rollovers or opto-based. This machine used an opto for the upkicker into the shooter lane and three rollover switches behind that.

I tested the opto with my trusty chopstick (these things are perfect for testing switches in precarious areas where you don’t want to be sticking something metal when the game is on!). The opto was fine, and actually so were the three rollovers; however, sometimes the rollovers can be maladjusted where they work from a functional standpoint, but aren’t engaged properly when the ball is on them.

So, I removed the trough and made some adjustments to the rollover switches and rolled a ball slowly over each one ensuring I heard the proper “click”. I put the trough back in the game, loaded back in all 4 balls and then play tested 3-4 full games. Everything functioned as it should and MET LE is back to putting one ball out at a time.

Metallica LE back in business

Metallica LE back in business

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1980 Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Repairs

Had a Bally Eight Ball Deluxe in for repairs that I recently finished up. It was only getting 6 flashes at bootup, missing the 7th and final flash which usually points to a loss of the +43vdc or the U10 or U14 chips are bad.

This game was missing +43vdc from a blown fuse at F4 on the power board. One of the solenoids had grounded out sending a spike back. While I had the game in the shop, I put a new ball in, upgraded the solenoid driver board with a new 15,000 mfd 25v cap and ran the two recommended jumpers, and went through all solenoids and switches to make sure everything was functioning correctly. Game is now back home in VA doing what it should!

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